On a visit to the Jura Massif region of France, I fell hard for its beauty, tranquility, and dedication to making great food. Foods that began as a necessity centuries ago, like Comte’ cheese, have survived into modern times.

The region’s food may be less known than that of other parts of France, but it deserves as much attention. Comte’ cheese was born in the 13th century in the central-eastern rural sector of France that borders Switzerland. While the snow piled up, dairy farmers preserved milk by making cheese and supplemented their winter incomes by making watches. The 180-pound cheese wheels nourished families in the cold winters, and the farmer’s watch-making skills eventually became some of the world’s most well-known time-keeping companies like Baume & Mercier.

Whether cheese or watchmaking, both require attention to detail. Comte¢ is produced in a defined protected geographic area, called AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée, using precise traditional methods and production standards. Two types of cows, Montbéliarde and French Simmental, provide the milk for the cheese. Their diet of fresh mountain grasses, wildflowers, and local hay gives the wheels their flavor nuances of apricot, caramelized butter, and nutty richness. When you see Comte’ cheese in the store, the color and flavor vary by season; summer grasses and herbs yield a darker golden hue and earthier taste. A diet of winter hay and dried flowers and herbs lends a whiter color with a softer, milky-flavored cheese.